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understitch,
Великобритания
Добавлен 24 июн 2022
fashion critique 🤝 business analysis
~ new videos every fortnight ~
patreon: patreon.com/understitch
~ new videos every fortnight ~
patreon: patreon.com/understitch
The Life and Death of Elsa Schiaparelli
Elsa was the genius of her generation. Out selling any other designer by far and inventing countless designs over her years. Newspaper print, decorative zippers, the women's suit, the backwards suit, the wrap dress and culottes are just some of the many inventions made first by Schiaparelli. But what of the woman behind the genius?
00:00 Intro
01:03 Chapter 1: CHILDHOOD
24:05 Chapter 2: LONDON, PARIS & AMERICA. LOVE, MARRIAGE & DIVORCE
48:28 Chapter 3: A RETURN TO PARIS
59:50 Chapter 4: THE BEGINNINGS OF SCHIAPARELLI
1:18:29 Chapter 5: SUCCESS UPON SUCCESS UPON SUCCESS
1:40:30 Chapter 6: WORLD WAR TWO
1:56:04 Chapter 7: SUSPICION
2:10:46 Chapter 8: EXILE
2:16:52 Chapter 9: THE POST-WAR, THE DEMISE ...
00:00 Intro
01:03 Chapter 1: CHILDHOOD
24:05 Chapter 2: LONDON, PARIS & AMERICA. LOVE, MARRIAGE & DIVORCE
48:28 Chapter 3: A RETURN TO PARIS
59:50 Chapter 4: THE BEGINNINGS OF SCHIAPARELLI
1:18:29 Chapter 5: SUCCESS UPON SUCCESS UPON SUCCESS
1:40:30 Chapter 6: WORLD WAR TWO
1:56:04 Chapter 7: SUSPICION
2:10:46 Chapter 8: EXILE
2:16:52 Chapter 9: THE POST-WAR, THE DEMISE ...
Просмотров: 40 357
Видео
The Rise and Fall of J.Crew
Просмотров 92 тыс.21 день назад
J.Crew, from it's beginnings as a mail-order catalogue, through to it's brick and mortar expansion had always been a pillar of the American retail system. However, after a long series of failed revamp attempts after their preppy style fell out of style, J.Crew has simply struggled to keep up. Their logistics was too clunky to be sufficiently nimble and eventually they lost their audience. Today...
The Rise and Fall-ish of Paco Rabanne
Просмотров 18 тыс.Месяц назад
Secure your privacy with Surfshark! Enter coupon code UNDERSTITCH for an extra 4 months free at surfshark.deals/understitch Paco Rabanne, known now only as Rabanne, was once one of the biggest brands of the 1960s, but after failing to innovate designs into the 1980s its been a slow decline into fashion obscurity, fully closing in the 2000s. However, while that happened, the fragrance side of th...
The Life and Death of Karl Lagerfeld
Просмотров 24 тыс.Месяц назад
Download Love & Pies here: pixly.go2cloud.org/SH4LL Thanks to Love & Pies for sponsoring! Karl Lagerfeld is arguably the worlds most influential modern designer, reviving not one but four fashion houses to relevance, even when it seemed to most that that was impossible (especially for Fendi and Chanel). This video that looks through the life of Karl Lagerfeld is meant to be a reminder of everyt...
The Rise and Fall of MatchesFashion
Просмотров 18 тыс.Месяц назад
MatchesFashion was once one of the biggest names in luxury online retailing. It had a very loyal customer base both on and offline for it's great mix of upcoming and established brands. However, following a $1 billion sale to APAX partners, all of that was lost in three years, causing them to go into administration in 2024. It a real blow to luxury commerce, but it's even more of a blow to the ...
The Entire History of The Met Gala
Просмотров 197 тыс.2 месяца назад
The Met Gala, now held in the Anna Wintour Costume Institute, has a long and storied history, truly beginning as a fund raising event conceived by Eleanor Lambert, it changed the way that the two Lewisohn sisters' collection would be perceived forever. After many many years, many exhibitions and many galas, we saw it grow from simple an in-crowd party to a celebrity filled costume party, but al...
The Fall and Fall of Daya by Zendaya (& Law Roach)
Просмотров 49 тыс.2 месяца назад
Zendaya is one of the biggest celebrities in the world today, so why did her fashion line Daya by Zendaya (previously called Sole of Daya) fail right from the get go? It had good celebrity endorsement, good production, good margins from said production. But really, honestly, I think the failure of this brand was set from the beginning due to timing. Frankly, because her celebrity status was in ...
The Rise and Fall of American Apparel
Просмотров 51 тыс.2 месяца назад
American Apparel was once one of the biggest high street brands in the world. With indie sleaze ads that caught the consumers eye, Made in USA promise as well as their guarantee of workers rights, they differentiated themselves both in front and behind the scenes. However, the rise was short lived after in 2005 the sales began to dip and debt began to rise, causing the company to go public in o...
The Rise and Fall of Elizabeth and James
Просмотров 40 тыс.3 месяца назад
Elizabeth and James today is often remembered as The Row's diffusion line. And though it worked in that manner to help Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen fund The Row in the beginning, it quickly grew from cash cow to star brand for them, standing alone as a successful brand. In fact, Elizabeth and James was significantly more financially successful than The Row for many years and yet quickly made its ...
The Life and Death of Alexander McQueen
Просмотров 89 тыс.4 месяца назад
Lee Alexander McQueen was a creative genius, but he was also haunted by his many years of abuse and negligence from both family and workplace. His story is far from a happy one, and led him to really hit out at those around him in order to make himself feel better. Yet, those that tried to help were swatted away in favour of profits and keeping McQueen working as much as he possibly could. Howe...
The Rise and Fall of J.Lo by Jennifer Lopez (and JustSweet)
Просмотров 35 тыс.4 месяца назад
The Rise and Fall of J.Lo by Jennifer Lopez (and JustSweet)
The Rise and Fall of Gosha Rubchinskiy
Просмотров 40 тыс.6 месяцев назад
The Rise and Fall of Gosha Rubchinskiy
The Fall and Rise of Victoria Beckham
Просмотров 76 тыс.6 месяцев назад
The Fall and Rise of Victoria Beckham
The Fall and Rise of SKIMS by Kim Kardashian
Просмотров 118 тыс.7 месяцев назад
The Fall and Rise of SKIMS by Kim Kardashian
The Crash and Burn of Victoria's Secret
Просмотров 54 тыс.7 месяцев назад
The Crash and Burn of Victoria's Secret
The Launch of KHY by Kylie Jenner
Просмотров 123 тыс.8 месяцев назад
The Launch of KHY by Kylie Jenner
The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen
Просмотров 172 тыс.9 месяцев назад
The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen
The Rise and Fall of John Galliano
Просмотров 214 тыс.11 месяцев назад
The Rise and Fall of John Galliano
The Inevitable Fall of Savage X Fenty
Просмотров 122 тыс.11 месяцев назад
The Inevitable Fall of Savage X Fenty
Elsa Schiaparelli is a descendant of the Medici, yeesh !
We love a historical queen
i worked at J. Crew the summer of 1999 for a couple of months before going into my senior year of college. i had such a wonderful time working for them. years later i reapplied for a stylist assistant position with the company (Madewell too), but i didn't get it...oh well, their loss.
I’m so glad to hear that you had such a wonderful experience with them, sorry they didn’t see the value in you a second time 🤍
i actually worked as a backstage dresser at that JustSweet SS09 show. i met Jennifer, her sister Linda, and Marc Anthony (who she was married to at the time). i'm surprised that you didn't mention her brief collaboration/partnership with the store Kohl's. i remember her trying to sell a line JLO clothing there too.
They’re actually was a partner video to this video, that just did so badly in the algorithm that I deleted it, and I mentioned it in that
Fashion is dead ever since 2020.
This was fantastic! Thank you so much for this truly great work.
I’m so glad you enjoyed it, thank you very much
this was so good wow🥲 it’s so interesting all that happened during the war time. I’m so sad about her calling out for pinot at the end </3
I’m really glad you enjoyed it, I’m so happy to know that she was such a nice person
this makes me feel old. i bought a few items before the production issues started
Were they good quality?
This is literally life changing. Thank you for your dedication to preserving history! ❤
Im so glad you enjoyed it 🥰
How was Emily excluded from the style due to anti semitism? Serious question. Please explain. I have Jewish friends who dress super preppy.
Its not massively explained in the book. I took that to mean she wasn’t excluded in general because of her religion and that meant that she was pushed out of the style by proxy
Anya Taylor-Joy wore a beautiful Dior crystal dress in Cannes. Her Tiffany necklace was spectacular. ruclips.net/video/dUdokIU67lQ/видео.html
The good old days of retail. Popular Club had good quality clothes for women.
Back when retail was about making clothes that lasted
💋Moskino💋
❤️
I ordered a few sweaters from J Crew in the 1990s. It was so exciting! And I wore them a lot. The next year, I was in Palm Springs and went to the J Crew at the outlet mall there. It was decidedly less great. There was a lot of junk clothing, unlike in the home catalogue.
Generally the quality of clothes has fallen so much, its so disappointing
When you asked for suggestions I said do longer content. I really ❤❤❤ this video Good Job
I love the longer videos too tbh, just wish I could do them more often
The quality of the fabrics has gone down but I still love J. Crew. I hope they bring back velvet blazers for the holidays.
Theyre better than so many even with the dip in quality that theyve had
So there’s where all the White ppl went in commercials. The past. :/
This was wonderful… thanks for a fabulous biography.
Thank you too!
KidSuper is dope 🔥🔥🔥
So sick
8:11 I’ve just started the video, and did you say that Sciaps grandmother died when she was 20, while her daughter (sciaps mother was 10)? Does that mean that she gave birth to her when she was 10 years old?..
She was 12 when she got married and 20 when she died. She had several kids in that time
You should be on a million subscribers! Great channel! Very inspiring
Thats so kind thank you 🥰
It hit the nail on the head . The logo for Karl Lagerfeld is juvenile to said the least. it lead the style to no where. I believe its combination Ego and self-hatred. The is a famous Chinese story about the Monkey king. Monkey king have managed to defeat everyone that was powerful. But there was one person he could defeat. It was his Ego. Good video, however its too pain to watch.
I’m glad you enjoyed the video so much, I totally understand what you mean about the proverb
Excellence . this is the best history video on any designer. thank you.
Thank you so much 🥰
I still shop regularly at Jcrew, although I was at my peak as a customer back in the Drexler/Lyons heyday. I had been introduced to the brand in college by girls who'd lay out their jcrew catalogues on their coffee tables like they were magazines. I bought pieces back then but since its devotees made it so cult-like, I limited my consumption to just that, a few items here and there. It was during the time right after college that I was racially profiled and followed around one of their stores by a sales associate and vowed never to return. Probably a decade later, during the Drexler/Lyons days I befriended a JCrew manager, a black man, who enticed me back into the brand. I still have pieces in my wardrobe from when I first started at Jcrew in the late 90s. I don't think their current stuff will last that long, but that seems to be the nature of fashion these days.
I liked the publicity but not the clothes.
I think a lot of people fall into that camp
A brand with really strong identity. I have their shirts and even subscribed to their newsletter, that’s how much I love their design ))
Im so happy you found a brand that clicks so well for you, loyalty is a powerful thing
An Excellent story-telling of Schiaparelli. Worth the time investment to listen. Didn't realise that the model was related, yet there is a familiarity in features observed by the photos included. Very Well done.
What a wonderful compliment, thank you so much 🤍
Fantastic, brilliant. Thank you so much.
No thank you 🤍
I have been buying JCrew for a very long time...I still get shirts and sweaters from them and unique blouses.... I am 76 so by now the pants are not fitting right. But I do want them to succeed again. Fingers crossed. Thank you for this very informative video on their journey.
What a great video! I really enjoyed this! I graduated high school in 2010 right in the Lyons era! And most of the clothes I still own today are from J.Crew. I still really appreciate the overall prep look and I still wear it. I don’t know what J Crew can do at this point to save themselves in the world Being destroyed by fast fashion, but I hope they can survive and create products that people genuinely want to be seen in. Thank you so much for this information.
Fascinating. Thank you.
Thank you 🥰
Not just Jcrew. Anthropologie to me is no longer what it used to be. Beyond quality, the issue is that the companies themselves started to have people that copied them, and because these are high-brow wannabe companies, they can't have anyone looking the same. Therefore, they started to change. For instance: JCrew not only had a problem with the quality. That was true, their quality went down. But if we are honest that was happening across all brands in the industry. Not just Jcrew. There were almost no companies outsourcing and downgrading quality. BUT, JCrew's design went YOUNGER and the issue is that the younger people, in the US do not like to follow their mother's companies and the mother's didn't like the clothes. Because the issue is that the older women wanted the more neutral and fake "high-class" aesthetic. Which is the image of "luxury" Americans have. Despite the fact that in Europe it is not all clearcut and they sometimes are the ones that like eccentric fabrics. Basically Jcrew was hit by the issue that a large volume of Americans that are wanna be quiet luxury buyers just didn't like Lyons' directions. In Anthro's situation, they used to make clothes and items that were kitsch. As they became bigger, and their style was copied they now started to try to be different and more "high-brow". In this moment their clothes looks like everything else, with the same crap quality, rather than the original detailed seamstress aesthetic and their furniture stuff is modern and looks slightly better than Amazon. It is what is selling because once again Americans want simple. No colors, no personality, etc, etc. Turns out that neither of these companies are their former selves. And I'm almost forty. Lately to find the aesthetic that I liked from them I have to go to British companies like Boden and House of Hackney and similar. Because the issue is that US companies, as technology has grown, have lost any originality and whimsicality and just go for simple. And I can say this, I am American lol.
When I saw the Schiaparelli exhibition in Paris 2022, I was truly mesmerized by Elsa's design. It was whimsical and fun, unlike what one would expected from couture. It really captured your imagination unlike any other brands. Now understanding her backstory, it made me respect her beyond words. The London, Paris, & America segment just sounded like a real life version of the film 'Poor Things'. Yet, Schiaparelli actually did truly became an independent woman who set out to save so many. The WW2 allegations just sounded very misogynistic and racist to her role as an immigrant. While she might not get a full comeback after the war, I'm so glad her name lives on today with great success. She really did live a full life on her own terms.
Im so glad to tell you about her childhood and wartime activities. Im so so jealous you got to see the 2022 exhibition, I didnt even know it had happened, I must be living under a rock 😅
@@understitchYT I was studying in Paris at the time and randomly visited the exhibition. Definitely walked into a surrealist wonderland. They exhibited Elsa's drafts, her iconic pieces (the Lobster dress!), and Daniel Roseberry's 2022 collections. It was held at 'The Museum of Decorative Arts', definitely an underrated museum in Paris.
Ironically after closing some stores in New York they’re actively opening new ones. Their men’s stuff is still good although they constantly change the fit which is disappointing. I can’t remember the last time I paid full price for anything at J. Crew!
Opening stores in very promising locations could be a great return strategy. Not every store needs a place in the centre position, for many it can be the kiss of death
@@understitchYT agreed, but today the majority of their customers only hold off making a purchase online or brick and mortar unless they can save at least 20% on current merchandise. Speaking for myself, I don’t buy anything unless they are offering 30-40% discounts.
J. Crew used to be tough
Right?
How many innocent creatures were tortured for this individuals shallow vanity… Fur.
Would have loved the 5 hr version!!!!! Where can I see it?
Its on Patreon now 🥰
wow this was amazing
Thank you so much 🥰
“This video is INFORMED by” This video is the literal plagiarism of others work.
What are you on about? I dont think you understand what plagiarism is, nothing is copied at all. Not even close
Of course this is all shaped by your opinion. Sadly it’s so sketchy
Im pretty careful about adding my opinion into videos, and when I do its very explicit. Unfortunately the company has not evolved in a positive way post-scandal. galliano himself has returned in an upwards trajectory, but we are still yet to see that in the company
Amazing video. Thank you and well done! ❤
Tha k you so much
Can u please do Gwen Stefani
A few people have asked, I really should
>20 year old woman with a 10 year old child The way I listened to that three times…..Jesus.
She was married at 12
I’m curious if you have a Rick Owens video on the pipeline. The lore must be insane 😮
Im a little intimidated to make one tbh, I feel like there are so many people that know so much more than me
@@understitchYT understandably so, I’m sure it’s a behemoth!
Are those two little monsters still torturing innocent creatures for their fur…
Fall? Sorry, when has Tom Ford or his brand fell at all?
Brand hasnt made a profit since 2019
LOVED this video - you truly are the holy grail fashion channel
Im so glad 🥰 I hope I get to make even more than the four biographies I have now, I just love making them
@@understitchYT I just came from watching the new Karl Lagerfeld series on Disney plus so this video was perfect - I would recommend if you haven’t seen already! It’s an interesting portrayal of him
I have seen these designs and looks before, but I never knew the name because I’m not very into fashion. Very interesting story
I think for the less fashion interested its a harder name to find for sure. Im glad you enjoyed the video 🤍